REMOVING LIGHT SWITCH.
Dont take of the harness with the contact yet. It could be fragile due to age and heat.
1. Start by pulling out the knobb to the end position.
2. Now press in the little spring knob on the side to the bottom. and hold it there.
3. Now you can pull out the knob and rod.
4. Now use a flat tool that fit in the little plastic nut and unscrew the palstic nut. Use as big tool as possible course that plastic nut could be tight and its kind of soft plastic. Unscrew to Lh.
5. now the cromed washer came of and you can pull to switch back an it is hanging in the
harenss with conector.
6. take a small screwdriver that fits beetwen the flat conector and move the plastic up
from the flat pins by moving the screwdriver from side to side beetween th pins.
The plastic connector could be very hard to remove so be carefull.
Putting it back, do the same work backwords and make sure the little flat pin over the thread hole
where the plastic nut is to be seated is fitted in the slotthole in the dash, so it is lined upp correctly.
You dont have to press the little spring knobb when putting back the rodd.
Add a little grease to it and just slid it in to the bottom.
Taking the switch appart is another lesson and that is tricky to, course ther is a lttle spring
that shoots away if you aren´t carefull.
Some of the mouldings on StarChief and Bonneville have a stupid
washer type nut witch is hazard for the pin and a real trick to take off.
Sometimes the hood letters have the same type of washer nut.
The rear fender lower outer panel have those nuts and front roofrail mouldings.
On a 3/8 nut I weld on a thick washer and grind to two notches in it.
A socket of 3/8 is good corse the nuts on the other longer outer
panel mouldings and shields are also 3/8.
It Is still i tricky business to get those stupid things of so my rekomendations
is not to use them again use shetmetall nuts.
Removing The Radiator on the 58 Pontiac could be trouble due to all
inlets in the radiator and how al tubes and hooses are atached.
1: Hoses- 3 hoses are attached to radiator the 2 large ones for engine cooling
and 1 smaller for heater media attached to lower tank.
One of the big ones is also attached to lower tank, this could be tuff to take of
sometimes. Warm up the metal tube where the hoses are clamped on with a
warm heater gun the heat kind of move over to the hose then it is much easier
to remove them.
2: Tubes- 2 metal tubes are attached for transmission cooling in lower tank.
Those ones cold be real trouble. Its hard to get real clearance for the tools and
if tubes are rusty they could get stuck in the nut where they should rotate in and
So the best trick is to loose the sway linkage and move it close to engine then
you got a good clearance for the tools. (hang it on the front bar of the frame)
Brush away dirt from tubes put some ww40 on tube for a couple of minutes.
If rusty warm it up a bit with the heat gun and put on the ww40.
From under the car put on the 3/4 wrench on the nut closest to cooler then
put on the 5/8 on the tube nut get a very good grip and make a fast steady
movement this to make it close to how an air hammer works.
Its also easier to work on the cooler taking of the upper shroud.
Att ta bort kylaren kan var trixigt då slangar och automatkylar rören kan sitta
fast. Värm upp rören där slangarna sitter så mjuknar slangarna och dom blir
lättare att ta av.
Värst kan vara metallrören till lådan. Om man lossar krängningshämmaren så
kan man lägga den på främre rambalken mot motorn då får man bättre plats att
komma åt. Ta 3/4 nyckeln och ta tag om muttern till röret närmast kylaren
ta 5/8 nyckeln och få ett bra grepp om muttern runt röret och knyck till.
Om man segdrar är det lätt att man skadar muttrarna.
Förbered med att ta lite WW40 eller annan rostlösning på röret så att
hylsmuttern lätt kan snurra på röret. Om det är rostigt värm gärna upp röret
lite innan du tar på rostlösningen.
Det kan oxå vara lättare att jobba på kylaren om man tar av övre kylarramen.